Best Practices for Sewing with Lycra Fabrics

At Friedmans, we’re proud to support our customers not just with premium fabrics but also with expert advice to help you get the best results. This guide, developed with the help of Candy from the Sewing Factory, shares essential tips for sewing with Lycra a fabric known for its stretch, comfort, and complexity.

1. Always use ballpoint needles

Ballpoint needles are specifically designed to work with stretch fabrics. They prevent snagging and preserve fabric integrity by slipping between the fibres instead of piercing them.

2. Choose appropriate thread

We recommend using both standard and bulk threads. Bulk thread contains textured filaments that create a soft, plush finish ideal for "next-to-skin" seams. This thread performs especially well in the loopers of overlockers and cover stitch machines, where softness and comfort are essential.

3. Avoid pulling fabric through overlockers

Do not pull or stretch fabric through an overlocker. The machine's feed should guide the fabric naturally. Applying tension can disrupt stitch quality and damage the fabric.

4. Maintain slight tension during cover-stitching

Unlike overlocking, cover-stitching benefits from a taut fabric. This helps produce consistent, flat seams and enhances stitch appearance.

5. Check right and wrong fabric sides to avoid shading

Ensure that all pattern pieces are oriented in the same direction before sewing. Mismatched grainlines or reversed panels can lead to visible shading differences, especially with printed or shiny Lycra.

6. Use stretch-friendly techniques on flat machines

Lycra should not be sewn with a simple straight stitch on a flat machine, as the seam may snap under tension. Use a zigzag stitch or an overlocker instead. When inserting zips or making structural adjustments, regularly lift the presser foot to reduce fabric stretching.

7. Reinforce areas with poppers

When applying poppers, insert stay tape first to prevent the fasteners from tearing through the fabric under pressure.

8. Zips require care and precision

Inserting zips into Lycra is technically challenging. It requires patience and practice. Ease the fabric gently into place as you sew, ensuring the zip remains flat and does not curl.

9. Match patterns precisely

Although Lycra can stretch and adapt, pattern alignment is crucial. Misaligned prints will become highly visible once the garment is worn, diminishing the overall finish. By applying these methods, manufacturers and home sewers alike can improve both the function and finish of garments made from Lycra-based fabrics.

These valuable insights from Candy at the Sewing Factory are based on years of hands-on experience working with stretch fabrics. By following these best practices, you can achieve both comfort and quality in every Lycra garment.